MILAN, ITALY: Among the heart-pounding neutral-hued looks that swept through Prada’s Spring/Summer 2023 show along Via Lorenzini on Thursday was an unforeseen moment of reprieve; Magenta! Cyber Yellow! In a palette reminiscent of what Italian luxury is known for, it’s this look where the technical ingredients of this simple yet intricate collection are perhaps most apparent to the sartorial eye.
Yes, inside the dark, dungeon-like space of the Fondazione Prada – a panopticon surrounded by spools of black paper walls and with boxes as seats – a paper-based fabric collection was presented from spectacular way. With intentional tears and folds, and as if ripped from the body in a single primal, impulsive and intimate instant, Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons set out to show “the interrelation between the raw and the sensual, the delicacy and the roughness”, rate the show. Lily. In the aforementioned look, the skirt was “ripped” to the thigh in an act of emancipation, visually evident against the bright hues.
Skillfully crossed day and evening clothes. A sheer black nightgown once reserved exclusively for the boudoir has been delicately styled with an industrial-colored poplin collared jumpsuit. The archetype of the classic blazer – structured and solid – adopts a bow and a train. Antique nappa bags have been pressed and crinkled (it’s a very exciting update on your favorite Prada silhouettes) and knitwear has been hand-steamed with intentionally pressed pleats in phenomenal detail.
This play of polarities presented in folds and wrinkles is Prada’s ever-evolving reinterpretation of modern femininity. A break with the restrictions of the societal tariff and, via minimalism and decoration, occasion and every day, an ode to the wonderful dichotomies we live in every day.
At this point, from time to time, the attached walls were interrupted by what appeared to be parts where someone had drilled holes. Guests could look through the abstract peepshows to see the works of Danish filmmaker Nicholas Winding Refn and his short films that explored women’s lives and the broad scope of femininity.
Bravo, Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons. This partnership remains one of the most exciting on the fashion week calendar.